About Me

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is a 23 year old political science graduate of Principia College, He is joining ten other students on the CELL middle east abroad led by Professor Janessa Gans Wilder

Wednesday, February 16, 2011

Jerusalem

The City of God
Crossroads of the continents
Center of the World
Dome of the Rock

Christian pilgrims from all over the world come to the Tomb of the Sepulcher to pray 

View to the  North and East side of the Mount of Olives.  

valley between the Temple Mount (wall on right) and the Mount of Olives 

View of Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives.  A massive Jewish cemetery can be seen in the foreground.  As those of the Jewish  believe that the Temple Mount is the location for the final reckoning, Jews with the monetary ability to be buried within walking distance of the gates of heaven effectively cut the line to the afterlife.

We have been spending a week touring and living within the old city of Jerusalem and the experience couldn't be more educational and eye opening.  If only every city in the world had such vibrance, history, and diversity.  Jews of all flavors, from the trendy secular discotheque crowd to the ultra-orthodox, dressed all in black with long curls falling from their temples roam the streets of the city, weaving in and out of the crowd.  Christians of all denominations have laid claim to various religious sites which testify to the last days of Jesus.  Arab shopkeepers (most with Jerusalem ID's) hawk scarves, hookahs, and traditional foods as well as the ever present religious sundries from all three monotheistic faiths.  Arab families, both Christian and Muslim, living in the city prior to the annexation of Jerusalem in 1967 following the Six Day War have been issued special Jerusalem ID's unique from Israeli passports, or green Palestinian ID's.  These ID's must be renewed every 7 years, and proof of Jerusalem Residence must be presented.  This practice has led to the expulsion of many Arab residents and is a part of a larger policy of Judaization in Jerusalem.  Judaization is a sum of political, social and economic pressures or incentives put onto non-Jewish residents in the interest of creating and sustaining a Jewish majority within the borders of Jerusalem.
But i'm getting off topic... Jerusalem has a long history as the crossroads of many diverse cultures and religions and the unique human tapestry is apparent in the narrow, winding streets and alleyways of the old city.  This crossover of religions and cultures has resulted in many unique and wonderful organizations and individuals working towards the inclusion and pacification of relationships between disparate peoples living under differing religious and cultural rules and norms.  The inclusive nature of Jerusalem for me, holds even more significance in the current technological age.  With the rise of the internet and the ability to travel and converse, to interface with vastly different peoples and cultures, it is most crucial to learn from this holy city and it's inhabitants, the secret to peaceful and beneficial coexistence.
This secret is patience.  In a world of increasing speed and change, the need for patience when interfacing with other peoples is more necessary than ever.  Patience allows for both parties to be understood, prevents hasty decisions and allows for the accumulation of cultural sensitivity.  Personally, this understanding of patience is derived from a natural affinity towards all peoples.
Love is powerful.  Though it is sometimes marginalized by those who tout the power of governments and military might, or the power of money, I challenge anyone to find any subject more written about, more immortalized in song and art, or even more apparent in our daily life as a motivator of action.  Those who ascribe to material sources of authority, military might, governmental authority or through the use or threat of force express sincere fear of revolutionaries for peace like Ghandi, MLK Jr., and Christ because the sublimation of fear and violence into Love and peace breaks the assumption that might and authority can effect change on those weaker and less traditionally empowered peoples.  Nonviolence is a powerful and dangerous idea because it challenges this traditional power structure (might makes right) by empowering the individual with moral strength.  Nonviolent struggle, or as the Palestinians call it "sumud" is no less dangerous than partaking in a violent struggle, but it retains moral high-ground, refusing to revert to the barbaric tactics of warfare and violence in order to affect change.
Peace is powerful.  I was witness and ultimately involved in an altercation on the streets of Jerusalem recently, which I am glad to learn from and grateful of the ultimately benign and peaceful outcome.  I was walking to dinner along the crowded streets of Jerusalem, along with two female abroaders, when a man about my age came careening down the street (think alley) towards the three of us on a mountain bike, followed by three younger boys on bmx bikes.  The young man was swerving violently from side to side, narrowly missing many of the people walking through the old city.  When he reached us, he was unable to dodge completely one of the women I was with, crashing into her, then caroming off the wall of a nearby shop.  Immediately, my friend, mortified that she had hurt the man, began apologizing, though it was clearly not her doing.  The man reacted angrily, immediately turning around and attempting to accost my fellow traveler.  I stepped in.  Wanting this negative energy to be directed at me rather than my friend, I immediately put myself between the man and his target, and the man readily switched his target, slapping at me and attempting to get a rise out of me, begging for escalation.  I was steadfast.  My only aim to prevent him from reaching the two women I was travelling with, the use of violence on my part to achieve this goal was completely unnecessary.  Local shopkeepers who witnessed this immediately came to my aid as they saw that this was not a fight, but an attack.  I thanked the men who stepped in and, thinking the episode concluded, continued up the street towards the restaurant.  The man was not satisfied however, and soon caught up, this time running into the back of my boots with his front wheel, and again, trying to incite.  Again I put myself between my fellow travelers and simply looked this man in the eye while urging the others to enter the restaurant which was another 15 meters up the street.  He dismounted the bike and grabbed my necklace as if to yank it off me.  As calmly as I could (my blood was fairly boiling at this point) I removed his hand as yet again shopkeepers rushed to my aid.  I continued into the restaurant and after the adrenaline ran its course, had a wonderful meal.
By not wavering from my ideals and moral standpoint of nonviolent resistance; meeting that hatred and anger by clinging to nonviolent pacification, I was empowered with the ability to reach my aim (to protect my fellow travelers) without debasing myself with violent action against this young man.  By putting myself in this man's shoes, I can understand that this incident was potentially hazardous to his reputation with his cronies.  To take responsibility for such an embarrassing crash takes a certain amount of humility.  I think that this man simply wanted to save face with his buddies and (mistakenly) thought that blaming "those stupid tourists" then haranguing them would effectively save face.  I know that two wrongs don't make a right, but to say that I haven't fallen prey to the assumption that one wrong can be covered up with another, would be base falsehood.  I hope this provided as much of a learning and growing experience for this man as it did for me, and I hold no animosity for this man, but I do not by any means condone his actions.

Life is a learning process.  Every moment is filled with inspiration if only we open ourselves to the process of discovery.

Shalom/Salaam/Peace from the holy land

Wednesday, February 2, 2011

the L word

With my previous posts I had been struggling to find a concise way to illustrate the complexity of this conflict/ occupation. My fundamental understandings of this area and its peoples has been changing on a daily basis and I find myself thinking contrary to the previous day. Life is complex. Every day I am steeped in the intensity and (seemingly) immoveable nature of this conflict which brings with it an inherent difficulty in unbiased portrayal.
All of you who know me understand my outlook on life, I am a lover, a forgiver and I don't believe that someone who has done wrong in the past should be cast out forever. Coming from this perspective, it has been easy to empathize with everyone that I meet, listening to their narratives and identifying with their tribulations, on both sides. What has been most difficult, is trying to collate these vastly different narratives into a dialogue about my understanding of the conflict on the whole. The word “intractable” is often used by the media to describe this situation, an opinion that I have struggled with since my arrival. It was easier for me to believe that, by coming here, I would have the unique perspective to be able to make sense of it all and through some previously unforeseen path, bring peace and stability to the region. The reality is that I find myself every day more unclear about a solution, more fearful that the media has not mislabeled this story as “intractable” and there is no end in sight.
Although this dark thought has loomed in my mind and threatened to stump my best efforts at effecting change, I remain steadfast in my belief that just one person CAN make a difference. The solution is Love. The old adage “love conquers all” seems to fit nicely with my reinforced understanding that, just by loving, everyone and everything, I can make this world a better place, love does not have to be mutual, it does not have to be returned, I have just as much capacity to love an Israeli Defense Forces soldier at a checkpoint as I do towards a Palestinian youth. 
Human rights have been another huge aspect of my studies here. The abridgment of Palestinian freedom of movement, restriction of business, and inhumane treatment of the Arab peoples cannot be addressed permanently without a mutual love being entered into the equation.    

An Israeli watchtower looms over what used to be a bustling city street in the Hebron.

Security checkpoint when entering the Al Ibrahimi Mosque/ Abraham Synagogue/ tomb of the Patriarchs.
Since a (jewish) terrorist attack in 1994 killed 29 and injured more than a hundred more supplicant Muslims, the building has been separated into two artifices, half for the Jewish, and half for the Muslims.

Birds don't seem to mind the razorwire. 
View from my room in the Hebron Hotel